A colourful festival celebrating fortune and prophecy; a sign of better times to come.
It is late February, and the western border of Burkina Faso is coming to the end of a harsh dry season. The grim conditions have depleted all water sources, leaving the surrounding wildlife facing starvation if the drought continues. The animals look on, helpless and hungry; They know their fortunes must change, and fast. At this time of year, many local communities and tourists travel to the small town of Dédougou for the annual celebration of masks and costumes, ancient spiritual rituals and divination ceremonies. The festival is over, and the site now lies cracked and deserted, debris and paraphernalia strewn in the dust. As the molten sun rises, it spreads liquid gold across brittle branches, pooling over the dry, open plains.
The painted wolves and wild dogs pick their way through the remnants of the celebration, seeking a precious morsel to eat or drink. Adept at hunting for treasure, they find intricately carved gold weights, itombwa, cowrie shells and even discarded costumes amongst the sticks and dirt, some draped from the trees, forgotten after the festivities. Crafty and playful even when hungry, the dogs and wolves slip into the ornate outfits and begin to prance and leap, mimicking the human dancers from the previous night, before eventually growing tired, and returning to their search.
As the morning progresses, the costumed canines are joined by more weary wildlife, each desperate and exhausted. A young cheetah wanders into the clearing and clumsily trips on something, his long limbs flailing, sending himself tumbling head over tail. Bewildered, he exclaims and flips around to reveal the offending object: a small pack of playing cards lying in the dust. The word ‘Tarot’ is elegantly scrawled across the pack.
Gathering to investigate the commotion, the creatures are curious, momentarily distracted from their hunger. The hoopoe birds gently loosen the binding with their long beaks and turn each card over, one-by-one. They reveal delicately painted images of celestial beings, The Star, The Hierophant, The Lovers; Each card they turn is more beautiful than the last, their meanings clouded but intriguing. They turn over The Fool card and gaze at the central character in colourful striped clothing. Jester-like in appearance, he holds a knapsack and has a small dog at his feet. Next comes The Sun, a beacon of light complemented by yellow sunflowers and a beautiful flag. Finally, they turn The Moon card, showing a wild dog and tame dog, two towers and a lobster out of water.
The giraffe gently cranes her long neck over the group and assesses the scene before her: the painted wolves and dogs in their splendid costumes, the collection of foraged objects, and finally the illustrated cards spread out at their feet. She senses a divine power in these images, a feeling of hope and optimism, light and celebration, fortune and prophecy. She speaks softly and announces her plan; By combining the two divination techniques, the animals can summon enough positive energy to heal their land. They will dance a yenaandi (rain dance), while enacting the scenes of the Tarot, rallying the sacred rains to fall.
Inspiration
This collection references the playful, colourful and exquisitely hand-crafted masks and costumes celebrated at FESTIMA, the Festival International des Masques et des Arts, held each year in Dédougou, Burkina Faso. The masks' origins are historically associated with Animism (the belief that objects, places, and creatures all possess a distinct spiritual essence). The primary events of the festival are the performances, where mask wearers dance, accompanied by musicians playing hand drums, whistles, and balafons. The exquisite portrait book ‘MASKE’ by Phyllis Galembo was a huge help in researching the origins, details and variety within the costumes. Intricately designed Akan (or Ashanti) gold weights feature heavily throughout this collection, alongside small divination carvings, both often created in animal forms. Tales of the Madebele (nature spirits) summoned by the Sandobele (female diviners) in Burkina Faso also play a large part in this story. In the vein of divination, this collection was also based on antique European tarot cards, their symbolisms and their meanings; Each detail on the face of a tarot card holds a key to its significance, and each combination of cards holds a message for the reader. It is said that through divination, whichever method is performed, one can find a wider and deeper understanding of life’s events; It presents an opportunity to help us heal and re-grow.
‘When I do not know which road to follow, I will turn to the wisdom of the Ancestors. May it be so’ - Yoruba invocation for greeting Egungun dancers.
Process
View the collection illustrations in progress, and see how the drawings transform into detailed and intricate scarf designs. Sabina creates a story for each collection, as shown below, which is then illustrated and narrated through her elaborate handiwork.
The Campaign
Welcome to our Spring/Summer 2021 campaign, Divination Celebration.
Shop the Collection
A range of beautiful fabrics are available for each design, from classic silk twill to our sumptuous signature wool and silk blend. Each piece is printed and hand finished by artisans in the UK.