Enchanting embroideries of endangered animals; a naive illustration of a dire situation.

The English word 'sampler' derives from the Latin 'exemplum', or the ancient French term, ‘essamplaire', meaning 'an example'. Prior to the introduction of printing, embroiderers and lacemakers used samplers as a method to record their different stitches, motifs and patterns for future reference. Stitchers often finished their work by adding their name, date of completion and sometimes their location too. Some of the earliest samplers discovered are thought to date from the 14th or 15th centuries, and the medium remained popular right up until the mid-19th century.

In the late 1600’s, sampler-making became an educational tool, and was often completed as schoolwork for young women. The subject matter became more pictorial, including numbers and alphabets alongside elements such as architectural motifs (often the schoolhouse), landscapes, animals and large potted plants. Moral or religious texts, often in rhyme, became a popular way to practise lettering and the hours and days spent hand-stitching also served as an additional method of memorising a pertinent verse or poem. Often, the text or rhyme in the sampler designs would be noticeably serious in contrast with the naïve and dainty children’s needlework. Arrangements of delicate floral patterns would surround a grave bible verse, or an elegant scene of trees and animals would be topped with a dire moral warning. This trait, combined with a lack of accurate perspective and proportion, adds a slight feeling of unease to the samplers; each depicting its own fairy tale on the cusp of turning sour.

For this collection, I have illustrated three of my own ‘embroidered’ samplers, hand-drawn stitch-by-stitch. I have used the techniques described above to add a feeling of naivety, but the real sense of unease comes from the only ‘un-stitched’ features: the animals themselves. They are still in the ‘real’ world for now, and yet every creature depicted in this collection, from mammal to insect, is classed as endangered or threatened, their species in drastic decline. Victorian and Georgian mourning jewellery features species already lost, a stark reminder of what could lay ahead. The verses I have written and attributed within each illustration are an overly simplified moral warning for us all to heed. While the embroidered texts are conventionally religious in traditional, antique samplers, my poems follow my own form of religion; that of the natural world. Samplers have long been seen not only as decoration but also as an educative tool. My hope is that these artworks serve the same purpose.

Sabina Savage X Born Free

For the Samplers of Sincerity collection, we have partnered with Born Free, a charity passionate about wild animal welfare and Compassionate Conservation. We will donate 10% of every scarf sold to aid Born Free in their tireless efforts to stop the exploitation and suffering of individual animals living in captivity or in the wild. We want to help campaign for a future where animals and people can co-exist and where threatened and endangered species are protected for generations to come. Read more about Born Free and their essential work here.

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Inspiration

This collection was inspired by the incredible collections of antique samplers owned by the V&A, The Met and The National Trust, plus many other museums, galleries and collections around the world. It was also greatly influenced by the sampler and embroidery collection of the late Betty Ring, whose North American needlework collection remains vast and unparalleled. From Egyptian burial grounds, Tudor England and Europe through to North America, from spot samplers to band samplers, silken embroidery to wool work, darning patterns to ornate motifs, all types and eras of embroidery sampler have informed this collection. Victorian, Georgian and Edwardian mourning jewellery also feature in these designs, representing those species already lost to us.

The original poems included within each design were penned specifically for this project as part of the design process and were inspired by the rhyming verses found in antique samplers. Although the animals depicted in each story are always a primary inspiration for every collection, they are a particularly prominent inspiration in these works; Every species depicted in this collection are classed as endangered or threatened in 2022.

“The least we can do is speak out for those who cannot speak for themselves.” - Dr Jane Goodall

Process

View the collection illustrations in progress, and see how the drawings transform into detailed and intricate scarf designs. Sabina creates a story for each collection, as shown below, which is then illustrated and narrated through her elaborate handiwork.



Species featured in this collection:

Japanese crested ibis (Toki), Fruit dove, Araripe Manakin, Waldens Hornbill, Javan green magpie, Cerulean paradise flycatcher, Red fronted macaw, Marquesan kingfisher, Juan Fernandez fire crown, Glaucous macaw, Puffin, Hoary throated spinetail, Galapagos penguin, Gorgeted puffleg, Regent honeyeater, Kakapo, Palila, Imperial woodpecker. Memento Mori: Bishops Oo (already extinct).

Jaguar, American bumblebee, Hawksbill turtle, Burmese star tortoise, Northern quoll, Fennec fox, Ring tailed lemur, Roloway monkey, Snow leopard, Okapi, Black rhino, Polar bear, Orangutan, African forest elephant, Aloeides, Langes metalmark. Memento mori (right): Atlas bear (already extinct), Memento mori (left): Tasmanian tiger (already extinct). Memento mori (centre): Lesser bilby (already extinct).


Sumatran tiger, Red Panda, Giant Panda, Black footed ferret, Karner blue, Schaus’ swallowtail, Sussex emerald mot, Wolkberry zulu, Pearl bordered fritillary, High brown fritillary, Miami blue, Palos verdes, Black veined moth, White spotted sable moth, Macedonian greyling, Ornithoptera Croesus, Taita Blue-banded swallowtail, Eastern tiger swallowtail, Agrias amydon, ssp. Boliviensis. Memento mori: Pyrenean Ibex (already extinct).

The Campaign

Welcome to our our Spring/Summer 2023 campaign, Samplers of Sincerity.

Shop the Collection

A range of beautiful fabrics are available for each design, from classic silk twill to our sumptuous signature wool and silk blend. Each piece is printed and hand finished by artisans in the UK.

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